#Hertake: empowerment in every stitch
August 8, 2024
Image sourced and edited by D’jhanée. Photograph by Vera Ofure at Pexels. Women wearing patterned dresses with head dresses inspired by west African designs.
D’jhanée Soyebo unpacks the cultural significance of clothing in personal identity
Growing up, my fascination with fashion was deeply influenced by my mother. I have vivid memories of watching her getting ready, mesmerised by how she chose her outfits with such care and flair.
She always wore vibrant clothing that stood out but, as I got into my early teens, I often felt embarrassed, wondering why she wanted to draw attention. Yet, she kept wearing what she loved and felt confident in. At the time, I didn’t understand the rich traditions, stories and beauty behind her attire. Now, I draw inspiration from the African fabrics of my culture, sketching designs that capture their colours, textures and tales.
Sketch by D’jhanée Soyebo: Yoruba Asooke Iro attire
After converting to Islam at 14, I noticed a significant shift in my style. I began focusing on the modest aspect of Islamic fashion. Modest fashion is a styling choice that emphasises wearing clothing that covers most of your body. It is influenced by cultural, religious or personal motivations. Integrating this vibe into my wardrobe was initially challenging, but as I explored the cultural clothing further, its importance became apparent. Dressing modestly is about feeling comfortable within yourself and embracing confidence.
In Africa, women’s modest clothing varies widely across regions, reflecting the continent’s rich cultural tapestry. In West Africa, the Boubou, a long flowing garment, and Kente cloth are staples. In East Africa, the Guntiino or Dirac is a traditional dress wrapped around the body, paired with a shawl, offering both elegance and modesty.
Khanga and Kitenge fabrics are versatile pieces used for skirts, dresses or headscarves, each with a pattern that tells a story or conveys a proverb. In North Africa, the Djellaba, a long robe with a hood, reflects personal and religious identity.
Sketch by D’jhanée Soyebo: Orange Gown inspired by west African boubou
Hairstyles in Africa are deeply symbolic and serve as powerful forms of self-expression
Crown and Glory: hairstyles in Africa are deeply symbolic and serve as powerful forms of self-expression. In West Africa, elaborate braiding techniques have been perfected for centuries. The Yoruba women wear intricate styles called Suku and Shuku, which can signify age, marital status, and even profession.
The Himba women coat their hair with a blend of butter, ochre and herbs, creating striking red locks that both protect their hair and connect them to their ancestry. In South Africa, Zulu women often wear beaded hairpieces and styles that indicate their cultural heritage and social status.
These African clothing and hair styles serve as statements of identity and empowerment, playing vital roles in retaining origins and stories. The expressions of modesty and self-affirmation allow African women to connect with their heritage, celebrate their beauty, and articulate their history to the world.
Sketch by D’jhanée Soyebo: Classic black occasional boubou gown
Over recent years, modest Islamic fashion has become more popular with young women. It often embraces sustainable and ethical practices, which I also appreciate.
Through my photos and sketches, I explore the beauty and diversity of cultural clothing and hairstyles, giving women a chance to celebrate who we are, just as we are.
